All along lower Broadway, the sidewalks teemed with people hurrying in and out of stores. This part of Soho has been taken over by the "nationally known brands" that populate many high-end shopping malls. We headed west. Within two blocks, it became quieter and less crowded. On the back streets, carefully painted and polished art galleries and tiny boutiques alternate with rougher neighbors. Looking down the almost-empty street, I thought about how this could be 1950 or even 1930. It was a black and white moment, part of the charm and mystery of a large city