Most subway stations in New York still have at least some of their original tiles. Craftsmen carefully laid out letters, numbers and, in some stations, fancy medallions. Dark backgrounds are a mix of two or three colors that also vary in texture. Edging bands read as one color but are actually composed of several. Even after years of pollution and wear, the tiles have a painterly quality. Waiting on the platform is my opportunity to really look at and enjoy the colors and patterns, until a whoosh of underground wind announces the arrival of the next train.